Talk about bad timing. No sooner had Saddam Hussein launched world petroleum prices into orbit than Congress slapped a new tax on gasoline. Top that with already sluggish car sales and you get the soggiest prospects for auto dealers in years.

She's a real beauty.
Manufacturers are so jumpy they seem willing to try almost anything to get you to buy a new car. Saturn launched its sports car by offering “charter members” a no-questions-asked, return-after-30-days-or-1,500-miles guarantee. Most automakers have tried to jump start the season with rebates of a few hundred to several thousand dollars.
In the following article you’ll find the facts and figures you need to drive a hard bargain on a new car, wagon, minivan, utility vehicle or small truck. We’ll suggest what to look for when you shop, a task we’ve simplified by highlighting a winners’ circle in each price range. We’ll also give you the tools you need to negotiate for a car and help you choose the best financing.
Consider these shopping recommendations before you go anywhere near a showroom. SHOP FOR VALUE. One of the best measures of a car’s value is the price you can get when you sell it. In the tables that follow you’ll find each car’s estimated resale value after four years expressed as a percentage of the original sticker price. We also highlight the car with the highest anticipated resale value in each category.
The difference between a high percentage and a low one can be considerable. This year’s value leader, the $15,695 Honda Prelude, should be worth $8,632 in four years, or 55% of its original value. In contrast, the $10,070 Chevrolet Corsica, which at 22% has the lowest retained value, would fetch an estimated $2,215.
Anticipate Insurance Costs
The insurance index will help you judge the relative cost of collision and comprehensive coverage for similarly priced cars. The index is ranked from I to 17 (the higher the number, the higher the cost) and is based on past and anticipated claims for accidents, vandalism and theft. Large cars are usually cheaper to insure than smaller ones. Most two-door cars cost more to insure than those with four doors. A sporty car with the highest rating, such as the Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, would cost a married driver in Columbus, Ohio, about $850 a year to insure-three times as much as the 5-rated Pontiac 6000 LE, a four-door sedan.
The Insurance Services Office (ISO), which supplies the data to insurance companies, compiled the index. Rates in parentheses refer to alternative body styles of the same car.
Safety Costs More
All new cars come with passive restraints for the front seats. These can be either air bags or automatic seat belts. We recommend that you shop for a car equipped with an air bag. The numbers are compelling. With an air bag and a belt, you have a 45% to 55% chance of surviving an otherwise fatal crash, according to a recent study by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. You’ll walk away from the same wreck 35% to 50% of the time with a belt alone.
An optional air bag can cost as much as $1,000, but you’ll recover part of the expense in lower insurance fees for medical coverage. GEICO, for example, will reduce rates in most states by 25% for cars with a driver’s air bag. Other companies offer similar discounts for passive restraints.
The other safety feature worth considering is an anti-lock brake system (ABS), which electronically keeps wheels from locking into a skid, even on slippery pavement. The tables show whether anti-lock brakes are standard equipment. If they are optional, you’ll find the suggested retail prices and dealer costs.
The Ford Tempo GL and Mercury Topaz GS are basically the same car. But the Topaz costs you $524 more, for which you get such extras as door trim and a tachometer. Chevy’s Geo Prizm costs about $682 more than its twin, the Toyota Corolla. The two-door Mazda Navajo LX utility vehicle costs $1,320 more than the nearly identical Ford Explorer XL. The Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX is $246 more than the Eagle Talon TSi AWD. In general, American-made versions are cheaper
BALANCE THE HORSE-POWER AND WEIGHT.
Horsepower is a critical measure of engine power and an indicator of how easily a car can carry weight. Divide the car’s curb weight-the unoccupied car with all standard equipment and fluids-by the horsepower. The lower the number, the less strain on the engine.
SET YOUR TARGET PRICE. Our suggested retail price (which doesn’t include freight charges) should match what you find in the showroom. In some cases manufacturers may have increased their prices. Most of the prices were supplied by Nationwide Auto Brokers (800-521-7257), which sells additional price lists as they become available.
The other figure you need to determine your price is the dealer cost, or wholesale price. Compare the suggested retail price plus the retail cost of the optional equipment you want with the total dealer cost. Your target is somewhere between the two. The more expensive the car, the more room you have to negotiate. There’s usually more markup on luxury cars.
Prices on the newest carsĀ are up 2% to 2.5% on average, but you shouldn’t have to pay for the increase. In today’s market dealers expect to make a 7.5% markup over cost-more if the manufacturer gives them discounts. Hard bargaining can cut that margin in hall
First agree on the price, then settle the financing. Make it clear that the deal is contingent on getting favorable rates. To negotiate, you need the following information:
* The dealer cost. Tell the salesperson exactly what your price offer is and stick to it. One Maryland woman walked out on a dealer who wouldn’t meet her $15,000 limit on a Toyota Celica equipped the way she wanted it. The second dealer said no problem,” but then claimed the dealership couldn’t get a similar Celica for at least two months. Wouldn’t she take the fully loaded beauty that was on hand (with a $21,500 sticker price) for $16,800? Our shopper walked away.
The next day, she got a call from the second dealer with an offer she couldn’t refuse: She got the Celica with all the extras for 15,500-$6,000 under the sticker price.
Your target price should be close to the dealer cost. But there’s bargaining room here. The dealership’s cost figure actually overstates its true cost since a typical 3% manufacturer’s “holdback” on domestic cars and other special discounts haven’t been subtracted from the figure. Because of holdbacks, some dealers can still make a profit from a sale that is “below cost.” You can use your knowledge of such dealer paybacks in your negotiations.
Nissan, for example, is paying dealers $400 to $800 per truck to meet quotas. Chrysler is offering dealers $300 to $3,000 on all 1991 cars and trucks until December 16. Suzuki will pay dealers $500 for each 1991 Sidekick utility vehicle. The dealer can keep rebates like these or pass them along to you.
* The supply of cars. When the supply of domestic cars tops 60 to 65 days, it’s a buyer’s market. The bigger the so-called days’ supply, the better bargaining position you’ll be in.
Some heavily overstocked domestic cars recently included the Cadillac Allante (186 days), Chevrolet Corvette (126), Chevrolet Caprice (119), Cadillac Brougham (118), Buick Reatta (110) and Chrysler Imperial (106). At the other end of the spectrum were such cars as the Dodge Monaco (15 days), Eagle Premier (28), Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera (37), Ford Tempo (39) and Chevrolet Cavalier (41). Scarce imports included the Lexus cars (15 days), Mitsubishis (16), Toyota trucks (19) and Jaguars (33).
Days’ supplies for all models are reported around the second week of each month. They are published in Automotive News, a trade publication available at most public libraries.
* The age of the car The longer the car sits on the lot, the more eager the dealer is to get rid of it. Check the manufacturer’s label on the driver’s side door post; it should tell you when and where the car was made. If you decide that’s the car you want, ask the dealer for a lower price.
* The cost of unnecessary options. Dealer prep is normally part of the retail price. If it’s listed separately, don’t pay for it. You shouldn’t have to pay the dealer’s advertising fees, documentary or computer charges, import tariff fees, currency valuation fees and additional markups. Some are legitimate costs; others are simply add-ons. But all should be absorbed by the dealership.
* Dirty dealing. The dealer who “lowballs” the price of a car and then attempts to recover the discount by selling you an extended warranty or service contract, pushing financing with high rates, or offering you a low price for your trade-in doesn’t deserve your business.
A dealer who hustles extraneous add-ons such as fabric sealer is trying to wring an extra buck out of the sale. Rustproofing is unnecessary; paint sealer does nothing a good wax job won’t do; Scotchguard is applied at the factory in 1991 Chevrolets and Geos, or you can apply fabric protection yourself for under $20.
If a salesperson pushes those extras, decline them. If he or she persists, leave. A nearby dealership may be more eager to move out cars. Dealers outside the city limits may often be more flexible than the high-traffic dealerships in the city.
Most new-car buyers turn to traditional lenders-banks, savings and loans, credit unions and automakers’ finance companies-when buying a new car. You have more, and better, choices for the 1991 models.
“Cars are actually better buys today because of concessions,” says John Hammond, an economist and managing partner at J.D. Power and Associates. Even before the new cars arrived, General Motors began offering 3.9% to 10.9% financing on some 2012 Chevys, Buicks, and Pontiacs. Ford rolled back some 1991 price hikes and is offering 7.9% financing or rebates ranging from $500 to $1,000 on Ford and Mercury cars and Ford trucks until December 11.
And you may have choices that a dealer can’t hope to match.
PAY CASH. For those who can afford it, there’s no better way: Pay cash for a Mazda 929 S sedan, for example, and you save $5,280 in interest on a $20,000, four-year loan at 12% with 20% down. The savings on a less expensive car-$1,456 on a $6,895 Honda Civic hatchback with the same loan terms, for example-is only slightly less dramatic.
CONSIDER THE DEALER’S REBATE VERSUS LOW-RATE FINANCING. Before you discuss financing with the dealer, familiarize yourself with market rates. Loan interest should be expressed as an annual percentage rate (APR) so you can compare rates from different lenders. Then compare those rates with what the dealer has to offer.
As a rule of thumb, the less you borrow, the more sense it makes to take a rebate. The more you borrow and the higher the price of the car, the more favorable financing becomes. For example, Chevrolet offered a $1,000 rebate or four-year, 7.9% financing on its 1991 Geo Tracker 4WD ($11,285) this fall. When the prevailing interest rate is 12% on auto loans, 7.9% financing on a $9,028 loan ($11,285 minus a 20% down payment) saves $853. The rebate is a better deal. On the other hand, if you have a choice between a $1,500 rebate or 7.9% financing on a $28,595 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight Touring Sedan, financing a $22,876 loan under the same terms as above would save $2,160. In this case the financing is a much better deal.
SELL YOUR OLD CAR YOURSELF INSTEAD OF TRADING IT IN.
You’ll generally get the full retail price for your old car, rather than the scaled down wholesale price a dealer would pay you. If you do trade in your old car, however, the amount should be listed on the contract. In most states, sales taxes are figured on the net price after the trade-in value has been deducted.
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